F87 M2 FAQ


This is a compilation of information found on forums so there’s no guarantee that it’s correct. Corrections and updates are welcome.

Car Specifications

Information can be found on Wikipedia but here is a basic summary as things might be slightly different in the UK. The BMW chassis reference is F87.

M2

First produced in 2015, last produced in 2018. Single turbo N55 engine straight six developing 365bhp/343ftlb. Manual six speed or seven speed DCT gearbox. 1,500kg. Available in Alpine White, Long Beach Blue, Mineral Grey and Sapphire Black.

Brochure

M2 Competition

First produced in November 2018 using the M3’s detuned twin turbo S55 engine. 405bhp/406ftlb. Manual six speed or seven speed DCT gearbox. 1,575kg. Available in Alpine Silver, Black Sapphire, Long Beach Blue, Sunset Orange, Hochenheim Silver.

Options

Brochure

M2CS

Essentially the same as the M2 Competition but with the M3/4 engine tuning, 2NH brakes as standard (with carbon/ceramic option), adaptive suspension and lots of carbon fibre parts. 1550kg.

Press Release

2023 M2

Beyond the scope of this FAQ.

M2 v M2C

Almost as contentious as the Manual v. DCT ‘discussion’. The original M2 (often referred to as the ‘OG’) is perceived as a more involved drivers’ car. Its handling is more raw and requires more driver input at pace. It was first released in 2015 and stopped being made in early 2018 when the M2 Competition effectively replaced it.

The M2C has different seats, wing mirrors and front grill, a massive back box and comes in a different range of colours. The least sporty driver mode changed from ‘Comfort’ to ‘Efficient’, a couple of configurable M1 and M2 buttons were added, along with the ability to configure the buttons with setting for driving mode, steering wheel weight and behaviour of the DCT gearbox.

In 2017/8 an LCI version was released with had the newer iDrive 6, digital style dials, revised tail lights and updated dash trims. The yellow lights were removed from the light clusters.

The M2 Competition (M2C) has more power (405bhp compared to the original 365) and is more ‘refined’ i.e. handles rough roads better. It has a more up-to-date iDrive and has fewer ‘known issues’. The S55 engine revs higher and the torque comes in later.

The M2C is newer (2018 – 2021) and costs more (about £10k difference). The M2’s road handling can be a bit more twitchy but torque from the N55 comes in sooner.

Both cars are extremely capable machines but have slightly different appeal. The M2 appeals more as a track car, given its handling and lower price and the M2C slightly more as a daily driver but you’ll find plenty of examples of people with the opposite opinions. The torque at lower revs of the M2 can appeal more on-road.

The M2 has a louder, more interesting exhaust. One of the reasons that BMW stopped the M2 production was emissions standards. Significant modifications, including a change of engine, were needed and thus the M2C was born. The exhaust was the main victim; the added particulate filters meant that the volume and note changed. Quieter may appeal to some people though.

Fuel Efficiency

Neither are particularly fuel efficient. In general, you can expect between 16 and 36 mpg. Typical commuting falls in the 20-25 mpg range. Careful driving on A roads gives you above 30 mpg, fun driving gives you 16 mpg. The amount of tuning doesn’t make anywhere near as much difference as the way the car is driven.

Servicing

Spark Plugs

Interval: 15/30-45K (tuned/not tuned)

The OEM plugs are Bosch ZR5TPP330A.

M2 Competition

There are some recommendations to use ‘cooler’ spark plugs, particularly for stage 1/2 remapped cars.

NGK 97506 SILZKBR8D8S Iridium Spark Plugs are sometimes used instead of the OEM ones. They’re also a lot cheaper than buying BMW parts but more expensive than buying standard plugs from a third party.

There some discussion on Bimmerpost about these but the quick summary of the theory is that for higher power engines the standard plug gaps are too big and the sparks ‘blow out’ (who knew?) so the gaps need to be smaller. Too small and the combustion will be incomplete. Misfires in either case.

However, plenty of people run 100+ bhp above stock on standard plugs and gaps.

There’s no performance difference.

Engine Oil and Filter

Capacity: 6.5L

Type: BMW Longlife-01 FE, SAE 0W-30

LL-04 supercedes LL-01 so that can be used and is much easier to find. SAE 5W-30 seems to be an alternative to SAE 0W-30. To find out more about what SAE means.

A lot of owners ignore the in-car system which tells you at what mileage you need to replace the oil because their cars are low mileage and it could indicate 5 years between oil changes. Oil degrades over time as well as mileage so many people replace the oil (at least) once a year. It’s an M2, not a hire car.

Oil Filter for N55 (M2)

Oil Filter for S55 (M2 Competition)

Differential and Gearbox Oil

Differential Capacity: 1-1.2L

Differential Interval: 30K miles or every 4 oil changes

OEM P/N: 83222365988

Differential Oil

Manual Gearbox Capacity: 1.2-1.6L

Manual Gearbox Interval: 30K miles

Manual Gearbox Oil

Automatic Gearbox Capacity: 8.4L

Might be worth also replacing the drain plug and O ring at the same time

Air Filter

Interval: 15-30k miles

Part Number: 13717602643

Inchcape

Pollen Filter

Interval: 30k miles

Part Number: 64119237555

Inchcape

https://www.gsfcarparts.com/drpc12-0246

Fuel Filter

There’s no external fuel filter on the M2. (Is this correct?)

Brake fluid

Interval: Every year/every other year (depends who you ask).

Capacity: ~1.5L

Type: Dot4

Since brake fluid is extremely hydroscopic it really is worth replacing it frequently; do really want to be out on a fast run and have no brakes going into a hairpin?

Lots of people use Motul RBF600 as standard and Castrol SRF for track use. RBF600 handles higher temperatures than standard, RBF660 even higher (but it absorbs water even faster). SRF is expensive but very popular for track use.

Coolant

This is classed as a lifetime fluid and thus shouldn’t need changing. Some people disagree and replace it anyway. ‘Lifetime’ might be 100k miles.

https://www.turnermotorsport.com/p-1474-bmw-coolant-antifreeze-1-gallon-jug/

Fuel

98RON or above is strongly recommended. They can run on 95RON but it’s best avoided, particularly in tuned cars. The fuel cap lists E5, E10 and E25 as acceptable ethanol ratings. The fuel cap is on the right/offside/driver’s side.

In general, people prefer Tesco Momentum or Shell V-Power. Videos on youtube suggest that Esso and BP premium fuels are not great. At worst bad fuel can cause catastrophic engine damage. Again, this is particularly true with tuned cars.

Brakes

There are three different brake systems for the M2(C). The standard braking system, the M Performance Upgraded Brakes (known as 2NH after the BMW options code) and the carbon/ceramic brakes for the CS.

They are normally blue.

Standard

The standard brakes have mixed reviews. Some people think they’re fine, some think they’re bad and some think they’re good as long as you put decent pads on them.

  • blue front caliper – 4.890 kg or 10.78 lbs
  • blue rear Caliper – 3.600 kg or 7.94 lbs
  • 380x30mm front rotor – 11.300 kg or 24.91 lbs
  • 370x24mm rear rotor – 9.300 kg or 20.50 lbs
  • = 58.180 kg or 128.26 lbs

Allowed wear on the disks is 1.8mm. Technically, you can replace the pads as long the wear of the disks hasn’t exceeded 1.8mm.

Upgraded (2NH)

These are an option for the M2C (and M2?) in the UK but standard in the USA. Finding information about them for the M2C is difficult but they are the standard brakes for the M5 and M6 so keep this in mind when trying to find info on web sites.

They aren’t universally liked. Their size offers better heat dissipation but more weight. There’s very little clearance between the calipers and the alloys so are known for catching stones and scoring the inside of them. Their size could help on track days but don’t offer much for daily driving.

They are normally silver but often red in the USA.

  • Front brake disk left p/n: 34118072017
  • Front brake disk right p/n: 34118072018
  • Rear Brake disk left p/n: 34118072019
  • Rear brake disk right p/n: 34118072020

Bigger brakes do not stop you sooner, they just dissipate heat faster.

  • silver/red front caliper – 7.540 kg or 16.62 lbs
  • silver/red rear Caliper – 4.310 kg or 9.50 lbs
  • 400x36mm front rotor – 13.870 kg or 30.58
  • 380x30mm rear rotor – 11.300 kg or 24.91
  • = 74.040 kg or 163.23 lbs

CS

Carbon/Ceramic 400x38mm disks.

M L Performance website for Carbon/ceramic brake disks

Brake Pads

There doesn’t seem to be one make or model of pad that is universally liked. So, in no particular order:

  • Pagid RSL29/RS29 – probably best for track use as they can squeal alot in normal usage. Low dust.
  • Ferrodo DS Uno – again more for track use
  • Ferrodo DS 1.11 – for fast road use but can be a bit noisy for everyday use.
  • Endless MX72+ – for fast road or track use. Low dust, low noise, good feel. Very expensive.
  • Ferodo DS2500 – for fast road use but can be quite dusty and expensive. Opinion is definitely polarised.
  • EBC Yellow stuff are all round good pads.
  • MX22 for 2NH

Comparision

Part numbers:

  • Brake pads for 2NH: Front: 34112284869
  • <other part numbers>

Brake pads for CS:

  • Front BMW ceramic pads #34112284970
  • Rear BMW ceramic pads #34212284990

Manual v. DCT

To say that opinions vary would be an understatement. You’ll find preferences across the entire spectrum and they are extremely subjective. Some people have moved from a lifetime of manual to DCT and wouldn’t consider going back. Some have sold their DCT to buy a manual and wouldn’t consider going back.

More objectively, people seem to agree that the DCT is a very good gearbox in general and gives quicker gear changes than a manual. It can be less than smooth at low, commuter speeds (compared to, say, a torque converter) but is excellent when the car is being pushed.

The manual is generally liked but is far from the best manual gearbox on the market.

People in support of the DCT like the ease of not having a clutch and the fast gear changes. Detracters think that there’s a lack of driver engagement and compare it playing a video game. The reverse is true for the manual proponents.

Information about the various driving modes is encapsulated in this document:

Insurance

Obviously the cost of insurance depends on a number of factors (modifications, age, location, convictions, claims to name the big ones). Many people swear by particular insurers and they, no doubt, suit them well but a different person with different circumstances might get a very different quote. The only way to get the best quote is to call around. Comparison sites are good but probably won’t cover all the different brokers who might be able to offer deals more specific to you.

In particular, modified cars can be problematic. If you tick the ‘Modified’ box on a comparison site half the choices disappear immediately. Some insurers have a list of post codes they won’t cover. Others insist on trackers being fitted to higher value/risk cars. Each company has its own algorithm designed to maximise profits by offering the lowest premiums at the lowest risk. So most companies favour the ‘low hanging fruit’ i.e. unmodified medium family cars and ignore modified high performance M cars as its not worth their while.

Some people favour brokers, particularly for modified cars as that’s what they specialise in.

Here’s a list of insurers recommended by members, in no particular order:

A-Plan Thatcham
Admiral
Saga (over 50 years old)
Reis
Churchill
By Miles
Swift
Adrian Flux
Darwin
Tesco
Paceward
Chris Knott
Keith Michaels
Aviva
Elephant
Safely Insured

Immobiliser/Tracker

Most Immobilser use a separate key/fob/mobile device as a second form of identification. Ghost immobilisers work by tapping into the CAN bus and allowing you to enter a code using the preset buttons. S5 rated trackers seem to be a popular demand for insurance companies.

Ghost Tracker/Immobiliser

Thatcham S5 Tracker/Immobiliser

Carbon

The carbon interior and exterior are dealer options from BMW. However, there are a number of third party options which are cheaper/more expensive and better/worse.

Interior carbon parts:

  • Gear select surround
  • Paddles
  • Centre console
  • Door handles
  • Handbrake
  • Front facia
  • Steering wheel

Exterior carbon parts:

  • Splitter
  • Diffuser
  • Rear winglets
  • Mirror caps
  • Boot lip
  • Side ‘M’ inserts
  • ‘Shark fin’
  • Front grill

CT Carbon

IPPS

AutoID

B7 Performance

Maxton

Tyres

  • Michelin Pilot Super Sports (MPSS). The original M2(C) tyres but considered somewhat lacking in grip, particularly in the wet.
  • Michelin Pilot Sport 4S (PS4). The most common tyre upgrade and better than the MPSS, particularly in the wet. The PS4 may be out of production as of around 2022/23 and the PS5 is its replacement but may not be as good.
  • Continental Sport Contact 7 (CS7/Conti Sport 7). An alternative to the PS4 and reputed to have better grip in both wet and dry. They’re also cheaper.
  • Michelin Pilot Sport Cup 2. A popular choice for the track. Less tread and more grip.

The M2(C) comes with 245/35/R19 Front and 265/35/R19 Rear. The rims are 9J and 10J respectively. Popular alternatives are:

Front: 255/35/R19 and 265/30/R19

Rear: 275/35/R19 and 295/30/R19

Tyre fitment checker for if you’re thinking about different size tyres and alloys.

Specifications for the original wheels available for the M2(C)

M2 Wheel/Tyre fitment guide: https://support.apexraceparts.com/hc/en-us/articles/360002681254-F87-M2-Wheel-Tire-Fitment-Guide

Autosocks are alternatives to snow chains (but don’t wreck your wheel arches). ‘695’ is the appropriate size for the standard tyres on the rear of the M2 (REAR, not front).

TPMS part no. 36106881890.

Alloy refurbishments

Ace at Huntingdon

The Wheel Specialist

Devon/Cornwall:

DC Alloys Devon

Wheeltec Plymouth

Cambridgeshire:

Wheelcare Bury St Edmonds

Just Wheel Repair

North West:

Auto Renew

Rader International

Staffordshire/Cheshire:

Travis Autos in St Helens

JW Accident repairs in Middlewich

Autocraft in Telford

Bodymatters in Stafford

Leicestershire:

Perfection Alloys

Wheel Specialist

Dan Merrin Wheels

Derby Alloys

Tuning

Both the M2 and M2C are highly tunable but the M2C is capable being tuned further than the M2.

Power-wise you can expect about 410bhp (from 365) from the M2 and 530bhp (from 405) from the M2C. However, the sky is the limit or, rather, your budget is. Be aware of the crank hub problem (see below) which can damage engines, and the liklihood increases with power.

Stage 1 is usually just a software update and can achieve 385bhp/400ftlb for an M2 and 520bhp/510ftlb for the M2C

Stage 2 adds better airflow in and out (pipes, intercooler, exhaust) and achieves 415bhp/420ftlb for the M2 and 540bhp/520ftlb for an M2C.

Removal of the Catalytic converter can add another 20bhp/10ftlb but makes the car less than legal and unlikely to pass an emissions test.

All gearboxes appear to be quite capable of handling the torque.

Power (bhp) S55
with 97/99 RON
Torque (ftlb/Nm)
with 97/99 RON
S55N55S55N55
Stock405465406/550343/465
Stage 1
(Remap)
510-520385510/690400/540
Stage 2
(+better airflow)
520-530415520/705420/570
Stage 3
(+decat)
540-550425530/720
Hybrid turbo(s)800+600+600+/800+

Tuning systems

Until July 2020 remapping the M2(C) ECU was easy and could be done remotely. At that point BMW introduced a new Bosch ECU which provided extremely difficult to remotely access. For a while the only way was a ‘bench unlock’ where the ECU had to be removed. Now (early 2023) it seems that hacking the ECUs is easier.

As well as remaps, harnesses can be used but they seem much less popular than ECU remaps.

The two main systems used are ECUTEK and Bootmod3. They both appear to offer very similar features for similar prices (<insert information about the way they charge for maps>). Both offer the same power gains, data logging, multiple maps via the steering wheel, Flexfuel, pop&bangs, recalibrated display, mobile apps, top speed delete, per gear torque and many others.

There appears to be flexibility within the map designs with ECUTEK. BM3 seems to use off the shelf (OTS) maps. <More information>

Suspension

The standard suspension is nothing to write home about. People seem to find it a bit harsh on British roads. BMW offer a coilover kit as an option and the overwhelming feeling is that it’s a big improvement. This rebranded KW coilover kit is adjustable for height, rebound and compression.

Bilstein B16 PSS10

A popular upgrade and the choice of Chris Harris.

KW v3

Another popular choice and they are very similar to the BMW Coilover kit.

BMW Coilover kit (MPS)

This rebranded and slightly modified KW coilover kit is adjustable for height (recommended 595mm/600mm front/rear), rebound and compression. Running at stock height gives a big improvement and handles well.

Coilover Manual

Fitting instructions and settings

Eibach

They appear to specialise in lowering springs.

Apple CarPlay

CarPlay is an Apple standard which enables a car radio or head unit to be a display and a controller for an iOS device.

The 2018 model M2C has Apple Carplay as an optional extra (6CP). It depends on Enhanced Bluetooth with Wireless charging (6NW) and Wifi Hotspot Presentation (6WD), which are both options as well.

In 2020 these all became standard features.

To check if you’ve got CarPlay already, go to Connections and try adding a new phone as a device. It should list CarPlay as an option.

Apple CarPlay listed when in ‘Connect new device’

However, for reasons best know to BMW, the CarPlay display only takes up about two thirds of the display (the left half of the split display) but can be coded to use the full screen. The caveat is that the iDrive software must of at least a certain level. Updates to the software would have to be done before the coding for full screen could take place. This can be done by yourself or, more commonly, by a professional outfit such as Simply Coded or Defined Coding. There are risks associated with software upgrades so be careful.

If you don’t have the antenna (which probably comes as part of the Hotspot Presentation) then you’ll have to buy and fit it. It costs about £10-20 on Amazon and takes a few minutes to install behind the radio.

After that the car would need the coding done to activate it. It’s possible to obtain a USB stick loaded with the right software off eBay for about £25. Just plug the stick into the USB socket in the car.

Since the iDrive has to be version 5/6 and the original M2 is version 4 you’d have to upgrade to 5/6 before attempting CarPlay

An example of someone going through the process.

And another.

Doing any/all of this could invalidate your warranty.

Coding

Coding is the practice of reprogramming various parts of the car. Similar to tuning but generally coding doesn’t have any affect on the performance of the vehicle and is limited to ancillary systems, such as the in-car entertainment and displays.

There are two common pieces of software Bimmerlink and Bimmercode which offer similar functionality. Bimmerlink tends to provide more of the diagnostic, logging features and Bimmercode is more aimed towards configuring settings. Both cost about £100. They are available for Apple and Android mobile devices.

They need a dongle through which they communicate wirelessly with the car. Their websites link to hardware products that they recommend and/or work with the BMW M2. The dongles cost between £30 and £100.

  • Acoustic pedestrian protection
  • Acoustical confirmation
  • Active Cruise Control
  • Active Sound Design
  • Air conditioning
  • Alarm system
  • Ambient lighting
  • Angel Eyes
  • Audio
  • Auto Start Stop function
  • Battery
  • Blind spot detection
  • Brake Force Display
  • CarPlay
  • Convenient opening/closing
  • Daytime running light
  • Display options iDrive system
  • Display options instrument cluster
  • Doors/windows
  • Driving mode
  • Easy entry
  • Fuel reserve warnings
  • HUD
  • Headlight cleaning
  • LED conversion
  • Lighting
  • Mirrors
  • PDC
  • Rear view camera
  • Retrofit
  • Seat heating
  • Seatbelt reminder
  • Side view camera
  • Sport displays
  • Tailgate
  • Transmission
  • Turn signals
  • US sidemarkers
  • Video
  • Warnings
  • Welcome Lights
  • Window cleaning

More details from Bimmercode

Exhausts

The stock M2 exhaust is pretty good (volume and tone) but the stock M2C one is a bit underwhelming (see M2 v. M2C above). There are a number of alternatives:

BMW Performance Exhaust

Akrapovic

Remus

Milltek

Active Autowerke

If you wish to permanently open the valve flaps in the exhaust then start the car, put it into Sport+ mode to open the valves. Turn off the car. Remove fuses 146 and 147.

If you wish to permanently close the valve flaps in the exhaust then start the car, put it into Efficient mode to close the valves. Turn off the car. Remove fuses 146 and 147.

Sports Cats/Decat

OEM Cats

There are two sets of cats on the standard exhaust. The primary ones (there are two) are on the downpipes. They are available from BMW at a cost of about £4,500 (with about a £1,000 trade in of your old cats).

Hi-flow/Sports Cat

Sports cats (there are two) are a direct replacement for the original cats which increases the flow rate whilst still remaining load legal. Due to the differences in flow the ECU might need the remapping (does it?)

Wagner, Milltek, VRSF and Garage Whifbitz (among others) do Sports Cats for the N55 engine (original M2).

Garage Whifbitz and Wagner make Sports cats for the S55 (Competition). For some reason there appear to be fewer choices for the S55 and harder to find.

Sports cats add about 10-20bhp over stock and cost between £600 and £2,000.

Decat

Decats (or straight pipes) remove the cats entirely and are normally combined with an after-market exhaust which removes the secondary cats and filters. These are fitted for the ultimate in performance and noise, adding 20-30bhp over stock. However, fitting them will mean that the car will fail an emissions test and are only recommended ‘for track use’.

Quite a number of firms offer decats (they are just a tube of metal) including VSRF, Wagner, Cobra, Akrapovic and Milltek. Prices vary from £150 to £1,200.

Known Issues

Crank hub

A contentious issue to say the least. Maybe people believe that this is a non-issue and the ‘fix’ is merely a way for companies to make money from unnecessary work.

However, there have been damaged engines due to the failure of the crank hub so the issue definitely isn’t imaginary, it just affects only a small proportion of vehicles (about 1%).

If you’re not planning on tuning your car or pushing it hard (e.g. track days) then it seems unlikely you’d ever suffer from this issue. Conversely if you’re going to tune it to 800bhp then probably best to spend a little extra and guarantee that this won’t blow your engine up.

It may affect the M2C more than the M2 either due to the extra power or, possibly due to extra load from the belt driven water pump.

There are two variants of the fix. Firstly, there’s the ‘capture plate’ which should stop the crank bolt from slipping if it hasn’t already. Secondly, if it has already then a replacement crank hub assembly is needed. The former costs a few hundred pounds and the latter is more like £2K.

Valve Rattle

There are two valves actuators that operate the flaps inside the exhaust system and they are known to fail in various ways, the most common being a valve spring. If there’s a nasty rattle coming from the rear when you start the engine, that could well be the problem.

<link to information>

<link to replacement parts>

Charge pipes

A problem specific to the M2 and not the M2C. The charge pipes are made of plastic and have been known to split. This doesn’t cause any permanent damage to the engine and are easily fixed but replacement, metal, charge pipes are a common pre-emptive fix.

VSRF, Masata and Wagner make such replacements.

HK Amp

The Harmon/Kardon amplifier is located in the back of the car and there are quite a number of cases of dampness ruining the amplifier. It appears to be a bad BMW design which puts the amplifier near a vent through which water can spray. They are not cheap to replace but can be sourced. The main symtom is a loud crackling noise coming from the speakers.

There is a cover for the amplifier which was fitted from about 2018 onwards and a recall for older cars, however it’s not perceived as an effective cure. If you want to fit it yourself then it’s part number 65152715205 ‘Splash Water Cover’.

It’s possible to relocate the amplifier to avoid getting wet:

Upgrades are also available from Bavsound:

and Audiotec-Fischer:

https://www.audiotec-fischer.de/en/match/amplifiers/up-7bmw

Another upgrade option:

Light clusters

A common problem with many cars where the light clusters suffer from water ingress.

Coilover kit bushes

This is specific to the BMW Coilover kit. The bushes on the rear shock absorbers start to make a knocking sound and need replacing. The shocks are rebanded KW and the bushes can be sources directly from them for about £17. Part number is 65210769.

The simplest fix is to remove the shocks, push out the old bushes and push the new ones in. A special tool is required but most garages should be capable. It takes an hour or two.

Pad deposits

Sometimes the brake pads have a build up of brake dust and it causes shuddering/vibrating under normal braking load. The fix is to brake hard from a decent (and legal) speed to clean them off.

Valvetronic motor and Eccentric shaft

Applies to both M2 and M2C (and other BMWs).

Details are sparse but the Valvetronic motor fails and needs replacing. Often, for the same reason, the eccentric shaft needs replacing at the same time.

The motor is a few hundred pounds but that rises to a couple of thousand when the eccentric shaft has to be done.

This problem can happen as soon as 20K miles. The supposition is that the components aren’t being suitably lubricated due to poor quality oil (sludgy). Changing the oil more frequently than the specified interval, if doing low mileage, might help.

The failure is sometimes preceded by a ticking noise before the engine is started/when opening the doors.

From a forum post, there are three ticks (slightly reworded):

  1. A quick rattle upon opening/unlocking the doors for the first time in a while: that’s the valvetronic system sweeping through its range of motion and calibrating. It’s normal.
  2. A constant ticking upon opening and unlocking the door until the fuel door cap does its click. This is valvetronic rattle because the valvetronic system is binding.
  3. The jack hammer noise,: something is really wrong here as it’s really binding and causing a loud jack hammer sound.
The ticking noise

Some background on the Valvetronic system.

Horn

They fill with water and sound like a clown’s horn. Might just need emptying and the fuse replacing. Might need replacing. There are two.

Springs

There seems to be a growing number of cars with springs that just snap when being driven normally. Often people replace the OEM ones with uprated ones, see Suspension above.

These garages offer a mixture of parts, servicing, custom work, tuning, carbon, suspension, exhausts and more.

Swift

Lichfields

A Reeve

Performance M

DRW Performance

Fast Road Vehicle Solutions

CLP Automotive

Cotsworld BMW